What is umami? The fifth taste, explained

UMAMI ·

Close up of a charred chicken patty under a thick blanket of melted cheese, layered with pickle slices, caramelised onion, red onion and frilled lettuce, with burger sauce running down the bun.

Quick answer: Umami is the fifth basic taste, alongside sweet, sour, salty and bitter. It is the deep savoury quality you taste in aged cheese, mushrooms, ripe tomatoes, soy sauce and grilled meat. It was identified in 1908 by the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda, who isolated glutamate from kombu seaweed and gave the taste its name. Umami translates roughly as “pleasant savoury taste.”

For most of culinary history the West recognised four tastes. Sweet, sour, salt, bitter. Anything that did not fit was described in vague terms: rich, meaty, moreish, deep. Cooks knew the sensation existed. Nobody had named it.

In 1908, a chemist at Tokyo Imperial University named Kikunae Ikeda noticed that dashi, the kombu-based stock at the base of Japanese cooking, carried a taste that none of the four categories described. He isolated the compound responsible, glutamate, and named the taste umami.

It took the rest of the world most of a century to catch up. Umami is now widely accepted as the fifth basic taste, with its own receptors on the tongue.

Where umami comes from

Umami comes mainly from glutamates and certain nucleotides. In practice that means:

  • Aged and fermented things. Soy sauce, miso, fish sauce, aged cheese, cured meat.
  • Mushrooms. Especially dried ones, where the concentration climbs.
  • Tomatoes. Particularly cooked down or sun-dried.
  • Seaweed. Kombu is the original source.
  • Cooked meat, and especially browned meat.

Why browning matters

Here is the part that concerns anyone cooking a burger. When protein hits high heat, the Maillard reaction produces hundreds of new flavour compounds and a pronounced savoury depth. That hard, dark crust on a well-grilled patty is not just texture. It is where a large part of the savoury character is created.

This is why cooking method changes flavour so much more than people expect. The same patty cooked gently and cooked hard over fire are two different eating experiences, because one of them has built umami and the other has not.

Umami and craving

Umami has an unusual property. It does not just taste good, it makes food feel more satisfying, and it tends to make you want the next bite before you have finished the current one. Combine sources and the effect compounds: mushrooms with aged cheese, tomato with grilled meat, soy with char.

That compounding is the whole design principle behind a good burger. Charred patty, aged cheese, caramelised onion, a savoury sauce. Four umami sources stacked in one bite.

It is also why we named a burger place after it.

Read next: why we bake a Hokkaido milk bun every morning

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